CLUB PAGE
John Bates reports on the DVLA meeting he attended on behalf of the club
DVLA Meeting Wednesday 23 rd September, Swansea. .
The DVLA called this meeting between themselves and all car clubs in Britain to discuss the registration of old cars. Cars already registered were not part of the discussion. The meeting was called to clear up misunderstandings about the registration in the UK of imported cars, kit cars, rebuild cars, radically altered cars and the like NOT ALREADY REGISTERED. From the beginning it was said that there are inevitably grey areas in these categories.
The first misunderstanding to be cleared was with the statement that the regulations have not changed, as was being asserted. Another myth cleared was that the DVLA does not make the rules and regulations- parliament does.
Since 2003 any car scrapped by an insurance company will involve informing the DVLA. In order to deter “cloning” by criminals, these vehicles are subject to a vehicle identity check. If the check is a failure, the registration is lost and the vehicle, if it is returned to the road, will receive a Q plate.
Rebuilt Vehicles
To keep the original registration the unaltered chassis or unaltered shell must be used, but can be repaired. A new chassis or shell can be used provided it is to the same specification, and two other major components from the original vehicle must be used.
The components are:
Front AND rear suspension
Both axels
Transmission
Steering
Engine
Radically Altered Vehicles
(Not kit cars)
Components from the donor vehicle are given points. To keep the registration you need 8 points and must include the original, unmodified chassis/shell or new chassis/shell to original specification.
Components and points:
Chassis/shell 5
Front and rear suspension 2
Both axels 2
Transmission 2
Steering 2
Engine 1
Kit Cars
If all parts are new the vehicle will be allocated a new, current registration number.
Kit Conversions
A kit of new parts is “mixed” with an old vehicle or old vehicle parts and the chassis/shell is newly manufactured. The appearance of the vehicle will change. To keep the registration, the original chassis/shell must be used, plus two other major components from the vehicle.
Then it gets a bit “murky”.
Reconstructed Classics
This category is for vehicles not previously registered, such as a car made from a pile of old components and some refurbished components. In other words, “replicas”, in my understanding. Genuine period components, all over 25 years old, must be used. A marque vehicle club rep. must certify that the vehicle is a true reflection of the marque and meets the criteria above. Such a vehicle will be given an age-related number. If a mixture of new and old components is used, the vehicle will get a Q plate.
Other Points
The rules were introduced in 1996 with their guidelines. If there is no marque club the FBHVC should provide help with authentication. When the DVLA knows about it and it is appropriate, files will be endorsed “vehicle build up from parts”.
Dating certificates are only required when a vehicle has not be registered in the UK before. Clear, reliable evidence is required. An estimate is not sufficient. Club records can be used, but it depends on how good they are and how they were compiled. Internet information is questioned. Factory records may be used. Acceptable could be photographs of chassis numbers, chassis number rubbings. Each car/file is assessed on its own merits. A car club rep. should have knowledge/expertise. DVLA tells applicants why an application has been rejected giving the opportunity to reapply with further/correct information. DVLA DOES inspect a few vehicles, on a random basis. Every application is checked against the DVLA database (e.g. for chassis/engine numbers and the registration number). Occasionally an application is received to “retain” a registration number aired allocated! For this reason above all, DVLA is keen to get it right first time and not allocate registrations to dubious claimants. To reunite a vehicle with a registration number, the form is a V765. Club reps. should inspect all vehicles they are asked to certify. (At least one club admitted that they have a policy of NOT inspecting at all because of the time/distance/ cost involved. (I contend that if clubs don’t get it right, they will lose the privilege of involvement and it will go to specialist companies.) The club rep. should not get involved with vehicles outside his/her area of expertise. If there’s any doubt, rep. should not certify and should then tell the owner/customer and the DVLS, giving reasons.
Vehicles have to be complete. The usual reasons for rejection are: evidence not authenticated; no club support; vehicle is incomplete; record already held by the DVLA; wrong signature; insufficient evidence. Approx.10% of applications are rejected (but some later allowed).
As a result of this meeting/exercise, new guidelines will be written before Christmas. DVLA sees the need to look at its communications, processes and definitions in order to provide an improved service to applicants. For example, contact channels should be made clearer and the term “evidence” needs clarifying.
Did attendees find the day useful? Yes, 97%
Were policies clear? Yes, 80%
Had anything new been learned? Yes, 97%
Is the DVLA service good? Yes, 81%
Would you recommend the day to others? Yes, 97%
Would you attend another, similar event? Yes, 96%
John Bates
The DVLA called this meeting between themselves and all car clubs in Britain to discuss the registration of old cars. Cars already registered were not part of the discussion. The meeting was called to clear up misunderstandings about the registration in the UK of imported cars, kit cars, rebuild cars, radically altered cars and the like NOT ALREADY REGISTERED. From the beginning it was said that there are inevitably grey areas in these categories.
The first misunderstanding to be cleared was with the statement that the regulations have not changed, as was being asserted. Another myth cleared was that the DVLA does not make the rules and regulations- parliament does.
Since 2003 any car scrapped by an insurance company will involve informing the DVLA. In order to deter “cloning” by criminals, these vehicles are subject to a vehicle identity check. If the check is a failure, the registration is lost and the vehicle, if it is returned to the road, will receive a Q plate.
Rebuilt Vehicles
To keep the original registration the unaltered chassis or unaltered shell must be used, but can be repaired. A new chassis or shell can be used provided it is to the same specification, and two other major components from the original vehicle must be used.
The components are:
Front AND rear suspension
Both axels
Transmission
Steering
Engine
Radically Altered Vehicles
(Not kit cars)
Components from the donor vehicle are given points. To keep the registration you need 8 points and must include the original, unmodified chassis/shell or new chassis/shell to original specification.
Components and points:
Chassis/shell 5
Front and rear suspension 2
Both axels 2
Transmission 2
Steering 2
Engine 1
Kit Cars
If all parts are new the vehicle will be allocated a new, current registration number.
Kit Conversions
A kit of new parts is “mixed” with an old vehicle or old vehicle parts and the chassis/shell is newly manufactured. The appearance of the vehicle will change. To keep the registration, the original chassis/shell must be used, plus two other major components from the vehicle.
Then it gets a bit “murky”.
Reconstructed Classics
This category is for vehicles not previously registered, such as a car made from a pile of old components and some refurbished components. In other words, “replicas”, in my understanding. Genuine period components, all over 25 years old, must be used. A marque vehicle club rep. must certify that the vehicle is a true reflection of the marque and meets the criteria above. Such a vehicle will be given an age-related number. If a mixture of new and old components is used, the vehicle will get a Q plate.
Other Points
The rules were introduced in 1996 with their guidelines. If there is no marque club the FBHVC should provide help with authentication. When the DVLA knows about it and it is appropriate, files will be endorsed “vehicle build up from parts”.
Dating certificates are only required when a vehicle has not be registered in the UK before. Clear, reliable evidence is required. An estimate is not sufficient. Club records can be used, but it depends on how good they are and how they were compiled. Internet information is questioned. Factory records may be used. Acceptable could be photographs of chassis numbers, chassis number rubbings. Each car/file is assessed on its own merits. A car club rep. should have knowledge/expertise. DVLA tells applicants why an application has been rejected giving the opportunity to reapply with further/correct information. DVLA DOES inspect a few vehicles, on a random basis. Every application is checked against the DVLA database (e.g. for chassis/engine numbers and the registration number). Occasionally an application is received to “retain” a registration number aired allocated! For this reason above all, DVLA is keen to get it right first time and not allocate registrations to dubious claimants. To reunite a vehicle with a registration number, the form is a V765. Club reps. should inspect all vehicles they are asked to certify. (At least one club admitted that they have a policy of NOT inspecting at all because of the time/distance/ cost involved. (I contend that if clubs don’t get it right, they will lose the privilege of involvement and it will go to specialist companies.) The club rep. should not get involved with vehicles outside his/her area of expertise. If there’s any doubt, rep. should not certify and should then tell the owner/customer and the DVLS, giving reasons.
Vehicles have to be complete. The usual reasons for rejection are: evidence not authenticated; no club support; vehicle is incomplete; record already held by the DVLA; wrong signature; insufficient evidence. Approx.10% of applications are rejected (but some later allowed).
As a result of this meeting/exercise, new guidelines will be written before Christmas. DVLA sees the need to look at its communications, processes and definitions in order to provide an improved service to applicants. For example, contact channels should be made clearer and the term “evidence” needs clarifying.
Did attendees find the day useful? Yes, 97%
Were policies clear? Yes, 80%
Had anything new been learned? Yes, 97%
Is the DVLA service good? Yes, 81%
Would you recommend the day to others? Yes, 97%
Would you attend another, similar event? Yes, 96%
John Bates
Storage Available Information
Gillian & Brynley Davies
Email
[email protected]
Comment
We are a storage site near Bromyard it is our own place and we live on site, we have for many years stored classic cars in secure sheds Owing to one of our customers passing on we have a few vacancies for car storage and wonder if any of your members might know of anyone who would be interested in storage or could put us in touch where to advertise We store a lot of caravans as well so have for many years been in storage, so our security is second to none We are quite happy for people to come and see the site by appointment Hoping for reply
Regards Gill Davies [mrs] Tel 01432820239
Gillian & Brynley Davies
[email protected]
Comment
We are a storage site near Bromyard it is our own place and we live on site, we have for many years stored classic cars in secure sheds Owing to one of our customers passing on we have a few vacancies for car storage and wonder if any of your members might know of anyone who would be interested in storage or could put us in touch where to advertise We store a lot of caravans as well so have for many years been in storage, so our security is second to none We are quite happy for people to come and see the site by appointment Hoping for reply
Regards Gill Davies [mrs] Tel 01432820239
Shakespeare Rally Promotions
Paul Eden <[email protected]>
Good day,
I am contacting you to advise of Two events being organised by Shakespeare's Rally Promotions:-
8th - 9th August 2015
Tortworth Vintage Rally
Wickwar, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8LF
18th, 19th, 20th September 2015
Stoke Prior Steam Rally
Bromsgrove, Worcestershire B60 4LF
Both events are open to all makes of Vintage, Classic and Special Interest Vehicles. Please can you share this with your club members and if any are interested in coming entry forms can be printed from the website, (www.shakespearesrally.com).
If you require more information or are interested in attending as a club please contact the organisers via the contact details on the website. If you are no longer the contact for your club please accept my apologies and let me know and we will ensure your details are removed from our database.
Kind regards
Paul
Paul Eden <[email protected]>
Good day,
I am contacting you to advise of Two events being organised by Shakespeare's Rally Promotions:-
8th - 9th August 2015
Tortworth Vintage Rally
Wickwar, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8LF
18th, 19th, 20th September 2015
Stoke Prior Steam Rally
Bromsgrove, Worcestershire B60 4LF
Both events are open to all makes of Vintage, Classic and Special Interest Vehicles. Please can you share this with your club members and if any are interested in coming entry forms can be printed from the website, (www.shakespearesrally.com).
If you require more information or are interested in attending as a club please contact the organisers via the contact details on the website. If you are no longer the contact for your club please accept my apologies and let me know and we will ensure your details are removed from our database.
Kind regards
Paul
National Rally Gaydon July 2014. Daimler & Lanchester Owners Club,SPWCC contingent
John Roden has changed his car

John has just let me know that he will be coming up from the sunny south to meet us at Brooklands 26th August
It will be good to catch up
He also tells us that he has a new car /toy 1997 Mercedes SL320 only done 28000 miles
John Roden has been of to France (Again) and sent us this note
Went for a long weekend in France in February which included a trip to Le Mans to go and see the 24hour museum.
If you are ever in the area make an effort to go, wonderful collection of cars that raced there. These date from last year and go back to the thirties
It's cheap, only 7 euro's, has a cafe, gift shop and for a small extra charge you can go up and view the circuit from the grandstand.
Also has the best display of model cars I have ever seen, all painted in the colours they raced in.
Only open weekends in the winter, but was surprisingly busy on the Saturday we were there and they were mainly British.
Well worth a visit some pictures attached.
Fitting LED's John Anderson

Many Thanks to John Anderson for writing the article below as I am moving towards LED and asked him about his experiences
Fitting LED’s to my Austin Seven Ruby (Cutie as named by my granddaughter).
The rear lights on my Ruby sit below the bumper and as such are not very visible - particularly in heavy traffic; in order to remedy this I wanted to reinstate the central higher-level pork pie light as a stop-light - as originally was the case. Now: on the Ruby the handbrake is connected to the brake cross shaft so when applied the stop-lights remain on we shall see the implications of that later on.
For similar reasons of visibility in modern traffic I wanted to supplement the trafficators with direction indicators.
First a bit of legislation:
You cannot (legally) fit LED Bulbs to a post April 1986 car as regulations require lights to have approval marks, which means filament bulbs must be fitted.
Now a bit of theory for three brush dynamos (as I am led to believe – I am not an auto electrician);
Images from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions
Three brush dynamos are designed so that at low speed the output is low typically 2a at 500rpm and increases to peak of 10/12a at 1500rpm (10a usual setting on my Ruby). Moving the third brush too far to increase output may cause the dynamo to overheat.
Bulbs available today (in line with the regulations above) provide a current rating for a stop/tail of 21/5w (note the handbook shows 3w for stop and tail - must have been a glow rather than an alert when stopping!)
A comparison between today’s requirement and 1937 is illuminating!
2014 1937
Bulbs Current Bulbs Current
Stoplight 2 @ 21 w 7a Stoplight 1 @ 3w 0.5a
Flashers 2 @ 21w 7a Trafficator 1 @ 3w 0.5a
Tail light 2 @ 5w 1.7a Tail light 1 @ 3w 0.5a
Sidelight 2 @ 3w 1a Sidelight 2 @ 3w 1a
Panel 2 @ 3w 1a Panel 2 @3w 1a
Ignition 2a Ignition 2a
Headlight 2 @ 35w 12a Headlight 2@18w 6a
Peak Current Draw Day 16a Peak Current Draw Day 3a
Peak Current Draw Night32a (!) Peak Current Draw Night 11.5a
So in 1937 10a output wasn’t a real problem (until you turned the windscreen wiper on) but today with a peak dynamo output of 10a you need a well charged battery and if at night… All right I hear you say peak draw is only for a short period but if you forget to occasionally up the charge rate the battery will lose capacity and the starting handle is needed (noted Cutie will start with 4v).
So there you are sitting at a junction watching what little power you have draining away. When I started on this mission I had tungsten flashers and a mechanical flasher unit – flashing became sporadic.
Now purists will say leave as is but with LED conversion you can convert back as simply as changing a bulb. So I fitted LED stop/tail and sidelights from Peter at Dynamo and Regulator Conversions (www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com).
Problems? You need a good earth for the bulbs to work and in ordering note they are polarity sensitive.
Current draw to all intents and purposes 1.6a for sidelights and headlamps. So we are back to better than 1937 loading.
I converted the “pork pie” to 21/5w LED equivalent using a light board from Peter that includes a number plate illumination. A problem not sorted is that the front sidelights come on if the number plate light is connected (but not on). Must be an earth problem somewhere at the front as I have rewired the rear).
Flashers - Until I discovered Peter LED flashers were a challenge, as you need a polarity correct electronic flasher can (without the tungsten bulb there is insufficient current draw to activate the bi metal strip on a mechanical can) – at the time these were not available for 6v positive earth.
But with a positive earth electronic can (from Peter who by the way has his Austin 12 fitted with LEDs) and LED bulbs no problem.
I haven’t bothered with the headlamp bulbs as I rarely (if ever) take Cutie out in the dark – she would be scared!
So there we are peak day current draw about 2a. The only issues - LED are polarity sensitive and need a good earth. I used to check that the brake lights were working by watching the ammeter kick over and the flashers by a flick up to maximum discharge now nothing registers.
Fitting LED’s to my Austin Seven Ruby (Cutie as named by my granddaughter).
The rear lights on my Ruby sit below the bumper and as such are not very visible - particularly in heavy traffic; in order to remedy this I wanted to reinstate the central higher-level pork pie light as a stop-light - as originally was the case. Now: on the Ruby the handbrake is connected to the brake cross shaft so when applied the stop-lights remain on we shall see the implications of that later on.
For similar reasons of visibility in modern traffic I wanted to supplement the trafficators with direction indicators.
First a bit of legislation:
You cannot (legally) fit LED Bulbs to a post April 1986 car as regulations require lights to have approval marks, which means filament bulbs must be fitted.
Now a bit of theory for three brush dynamos (as I am led to believe – I am not an auto electrician);
Images from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions
Three brush dynamos are designed so that at low speed the output is low typically 2a at 500rpm and increases to peak of 10/12a at 1500rpm (10a usual setting on my Ruby). Moving the third brush too far to increase output may cause the dynamo to overheat.
Bulbs available today (in line with the regulations above) provide a current rating for a stop/tail of 21/5w (note the handbook shows 3w for stop and tail - must have been a glow rather than an alert when stopping!)
A comparison between today’s requirement and 1937 is illuminating!
2014 1937
Bulbs Current Bulbs Current
Stoplight 2 @ 21 w 7a Stoplight 1 @ 3w 0.5a
Flashers 2 @ 21w 7a Trafficator 1 @ 3w 0.5a
Tail light 2 @ 5w 1.7a Tail light 1 @ 3w 0.5a
Sidelight 2 @ 3w 1a Sidelight 2 @ 3w 1a
Panel 2 @ 3w 1a Panel 2 @3w 1a
Ignition 2a Ignition 2a
Headlight 2 @ 35w 12a Headlight 2@18w 6a
Peak Current Draw Day 16a Peak Current Draw Day 3a
Peak Current Draw Night32a (!) Peak Current Draw Night 11.5a
So in 1937 10a output wasn’t a real problem (until you turned the windscreen wiper on) but today with a peak dynamo output of 10a you need a well charged battery and if at night… All right I hear you say peak draw is only for a short period but if you forget to occasionally up the charge rate the battery will lose capacity and the starting handle is needed (noted Cutie will start with 4v).
So there you are sitting at a junction watching what little power you have draining away. When I started on this mission I had tungsten flashers and a mechanical flasher unit – flashing became sporadic.
Now purists will say leave as is but with LED conversion you can convert back as simply as changing a bulb. So I fitted LED stop/tail and sidelights from Peter at Dynamo and Regulator Conversions (www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com).
Problems? You need a good earth for the bulbs to work and in ordering note they are polarity sensitive.
Current draw to all intents and purposes 1.6a for sidelights and headlamps. So we are back to better than 1937 loading.
I converted the “pork pie” to 21/5w LED equivalent using a light board from Peter that includes a number plate illumination. A problem not sorted is that the front sidelights come on if the number plate light is connected (but not on). Must be an earth problem somewhere at the front as I have rewired the rear).
Flashers - Until I discovered Peter LED flashers were a challenge, as you need a polarity correct electronic flasher can (without the tungsten bulb there is insufficient current draw to activate the bi metal strip on a mechanical can) – at the time these were not available for 6v positive earth.
But with a positive earth electronic can (from Peter who by the way has his Austin 12 fitted with LEDs) and LED bulbs no problem.
I haven’t bothered with the headlamp bulbs as I rarely (if ever) take Cutie out in the dark – she would be scared!
So there we are peak day current draw about 2a. The only issues - LED are polarity sensitive and need a good earth. I used to check that the brake lights were working by watching the ammeter kick over and the flashers by a flick up to maximum discharge now nothing registers.

Look at the Hansom Brute Modelling on the Droitwich Spa Rally Flyer
Perhaps we ought to get the very dapper hat made with club logo !!!!
The Following has been sent in by John Roden. He hasn't seen the signs on the Dudley ringroad or at Hayley Green Island
See the following from the FBHVC news letter January 15 Full copy on FBVHC Page
Car Cruising Injunctions
In December our attention was drawn to news reports that a combination of local authorities who cover the Black Country had gained a High Court Injunction which was said to prohibit ‘two or more vehicles gathering together in the Black Country between the hours of 1500 and 0700’. Clearly the injunction was granted to enable these authorities more readily to police the increasing incidence of ‘car cruising’ which is seen as a growing social problem in their area. There are, we realised, several pre-existing High Court Injunctions, mostly in the Midlands, in similar terms. We made an initial approach to Wolverhampton Borough Council, one of the five Black Country authorities involved, simply to register our interest at this stage but expressing concern that our members out on a historic vehicle run might be caught by the injunction. Wolverhampton has sent us the precise text of the injunction.
Read it all in their Newsletter
This must mean that SPWCC meets could be illegal????
I know that we are not who this is aimed at, but it only needs one person to complain!!!!
Fortunately 99% of the population of the Black Country don’t know that the legislation even exists.
See the following from the FBHVC news letter January 15 Full copy on FBVHC Page
Car Cruising Injunctions
In December our attention was drawn to news reports that a combination of local authorities who cover the Black Country had gained a High Court Injunction which was said to prohibit ‘two or more vehicles gathering together in the Black Country between the hours of 1500 and 0700’. Clearly the injunction was granted to enable these authorities more readily to police the increasing incidence of ‘car cruising’ which is seen as a growing social problem in their area. There are, we realised, several pre-existing High Court Injunctions, mostly in the Midlands, in similar terms. We made an initial approach to Wolverhampton Borough Council, one of the five Black Country authorities involved, simply to register our interest at this stage but expressing concern that our members out on a historic vehicle run might be caught by the injunction. Wolverhampton has sent us the precise text of the injunction.
Read it all in their Newsletter
This must mean that SPWCC meets could be illegal????
I know that we are not who this is aimed at, but it only needs one person to complain!!!!
Fortunately 99% of the population of the Black Country don’t know that the legislation even exists.
Results from the 2014 Survey
Total Returns 16 Number of members 96 16.6% returned
Club run events, especially mid month lunches,
We would like to do
More tours, using the old cars and seeing things at different venues,
Having visits or trips to specific places
Using the cars on all day runs
IF you have any comments on the above either get in touch with the Web or committee member or bring it up in discussion at one of the business meetings.
- What was your favourite event in 2014. Club event 66%, Local Event 13%, Mid Month 19%
- What would you like to do. Tours 69%, Meeting at Venue 38%, Film Show,& Visits 19% each, Holidays 13%
- What other types of events would you like to do. Use old cars and see things, Visits and trips to places , All day tours run in morning lunchstop run in afternoon
Club run events, especially mid month lunches,
We would like to do
More tours, using the old cars and seeing things at different venues,
Having visits or trips to specific places
Using the cars on all day runs
IF you have any comments on the above either get in touch with the Web or committee member or bring it up in discussion at one of the business meetings.
Red Rear Reflectors John Bates
Have you fitted (or are you contemplating fitting) red rear reflectors to your car? Are you aware of the regulations governing reflectors?
Reflector Position (Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations, 1959, paragraphs20 to 23 and First Schedule):
No part of the reflecting area of one reflector to be less than 21 inches fromany part of the other reflector, and no part of the vehicle, or its equipment, to extend laterally on the same side as the reflector more than 16 inches from the nearest part of the reflector.
Longitudinal position: not more than 30 inches from the extreme rear of the vehicle.
Maximum freight from the ground of the highest part of the reflecting area of the reflector: 3ft 6 in.
Maximum height from the ground of the lowest part of the reflecting area of the reflector: 15 inches.
Character of Reflectors (same regulations):
The reflector shall be so constructed that, i f placed 100 feet away from and squarely facing a source o f light throwing a beam of white light of an intensity of 2000 candelas in the direction of the reflector, the reflector,
when turned in any direction through an angle not exceeding 22 Vi degrees, shall reflect a beam of red light of an intensity not less than one thousandth of a candela in any direction making an angle of not greater then 3 degrees with an imaginary line connecting the centres of the reflector and of the source of light, and shall not reflect any letter, number or other mark.
The reflecting area shall, i f circular, be not less than 1 54 inches is diameter or, i f not circular, be of an area not less than the area of a circle of 1 Vi inches and be o f such a shape that a circle o f 1 inch diameter may be
inscribed therein. In addition, the reflecting area shall be of such shape as to be capable of lying wholly within a circle of 6 inches diameter. The reflector must be fixed in a vertical position and facing squarely to the rear. It must be kept clean and plainly visible from the rear.
Reflector Markings
Every such reflector shall be marked with the specification number of the British Standards for Reflex Reflectors for Vehicles, namely B.S. 2515 and marked 'Grade 1' or 'Grade 2' and with the name, trade mark or other means
of identification of the manufacturer of the reflector. So, are your reflectors legal? Well, I suspect life is too short for even the most zealous traffic police officer to cany7 out the necessary checks with tape measure, ruler, dividers, light source, light meter, etc. What's more, I would expect his Chief Constable to have words with him i f he did. The same applies at the M o T testing station. I just thought you might like to know how difficult it can sometimes be to comply with the law.
And don't think that because you don't live in UK then you are fine and dry. I would expect other countries' regulations to be just as detailed. So, what of brakes or lights? Are the regulations more simple? Just don't go
there!
John Bates
Reflector Position (Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations, 1959, paragraphs20 to 23 and First Schedule):
No part of the reflecting area of one reflector to be less than 21 inches fromany part of the other reflector, and no part of the vehicle, or its equipment, to extend laterally on the same side as the reflector more than 16 inches from the nearest part of the reflector.
Longitudinal position: not more than 30 inches from the extreme rear of the vehicle.
Maximum freight from the ground of the highest part of the reflecting area of the reflector: 3ft 6 in.
Maximum height from the ground of the lowest part of the reflecting area of the reflector: 15 inches.
Character of Reflectors (same regulations):
The reflector shall be so constructed that, i f placed 100 feet away from and squarely facing a source o f light throwing a beam of white light of an intensity of 2000 candelas in the direction of the reflector, the reflector,
when turned in any direction through an angle not exceeding 22 Vi degrees, shall reflect a beam of red light of an intensity not less than one thousandth of a candela in any direction making an angle of not greater then 3 degrees with an imaginary line connecting the centres of the reflector and of the source of light, and shall not reflect any letter, number or other mark.
The reflecting area shall, i f circular, be not less than 1 54 inches is diameter or, i f not circular, be of an area not less than the area of a circle of 1 Vi inches and be o f such a shape that a circle o f 1 inch diameter may be
inscribed therein. In addition, the reflecting area shall be of such shape as to be capable of lying wholly within a circle of 6 inches diameter. The reflector must be fixed in a vertical position and facing squarely to the rear. It must be kept clean and plainly visible from the rear.
Reflector Markings
Every such reflector shall be marked with the specification number of the British Standards for Reflex Reflectors for Vehicles, namely B.S. 2515 and marked 'Grade 1' or 'Grade 2' and with the name, trade mark or other means
of identification of the manufacturer of the reflector. So, are your reflectors legal? Well, I suspect life is too short for even the most zealous traffic police officer to cany7 out the necessary checks with tape measure, ruler, dividers, light source, light meter, etc. What's more, I would expect his Chief Constable to have words with him i f he did. The same applies at the M o T testing station. I just thought you might like to know how difficult it can sometimes be to comply with the law.
And don't think that because you don't live in UK then you are fine and dry. I would expect other countries' regulations to be just as detailed. So, what of brakes or lights? Are the regulations more simple? Just don't go
there!
John Bates
Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway Invite
I am a trustee at the Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway (W&LLR) in mid Wales. During its open season between June and August, the W&LLR holds vintage weekends, in which one if its original 1902 locomotives steam hauls its resplendent Pickering coaches.
In 2015, we would will be inviting vintage car clubs to come and join us on these weekends and will be offering discounts on our fares for club members.
Please can you let me know if you would interested to know more.
Kind regards
Caroline Schubert
07722 949 581
I am a trustee at the Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway (W&LLR) in mid Wales. During its open season between June and August, the W&LLR holds vintage weekends, in which one if its original 1902 locomotives steam hauls its resplendent Pickering coaches.
In 2015, we would will be inviting vintage car clubs to come and join us on these weekends and will be offering discounts on our fares for club members.
Please can you let me know if you would interested to know more.
Kind regards
Caroline Schubert
07722 949 581
Article provide by John Lees, Dec 2014
2014 WAS A BIG DAY IN OUR
HOUSE.
After almost four years of toil, tears and hard cash, our 1932 Austin Seven restoration project, gleaming in its blue and black paintwork, finally took to the road.
Back in 2010,1 wrote in this magazine that we'd just bought a Seven (an RM, for those in the know) that had been off the road for 50 years and needed a complete nut-and-bolt rebuild. We had naively hoped to complete the work in time to drive to that year's Goodwood Revival, but anyone who has restored a classic will smile wryly at our optimism. Every step
in the restoration process ended up taking 10 times longer - and costing 10 times more-than in our worst nightmares.
We knew the bodywork needed professional attention and the fabric roof had decayed beyond repair, and that we'd need new running boards and window glass.
We'd planned for full electrical rewiring, reconditioned wire wheels and far more besides, but we didn't anticipate that every single component would require repair or replacement. We were soon adept at hunting for Austin Seven parts
from the nationwide network of enthusiasts, who share a language no-one else understands. If I say, 'Our SM5 Lucas switchboard turned out to be a Type N9 - typical, eh?'you'll get the idea. True, there were moments of glee, such as the day we first brought the Seven home on a trailer, connected it to a battery and - not expecting anything - swung the starting handle.The engine spluttered to life, and we drove the tattered tin box round the garden, double-declutching through
notchy gears, cackling maniacally and filling the air with un-ecological black smoke. We even discovered the engine hada 1950s'Supaloy' high-compression cylinder-head which, according to the sales literature, would 'make your old saloon go like a Sputnik.'Hmmm.
The biggest challenge, however, was the interior. As my husband commented: 'It's a shame that the chap who owned this car back in 1964 has died - it means that I can't kill him myself for what he did to it.'
This included cutting out the original dashboard and contriving some sort of weird, home-made replacement. Oh, and gluing the opening windscreen shut.
As we hit the second winter of our project, I began to lose hope. It was 20 years since I'd worked in an unheated garage, and I'd forgotten how your fingers go numb, and when (inevitably) you hit your thumb with a hammer, you wait several long, dread-filled seconds for your frozen nerves to send the pain message to your brain. But, on 24 February, all the frustration and pain (and money) seemed worthwhile. We chugged through the village, filled with the joy of having restored a piece of
history, and of driving something whose every nut and bolt we knew personally. It was also a pleasure to see other people's reactions to this tiny pre-war car that looks more like a toy than a four-seater saloon.
When we pottered past three tough-looking, woolly-hat-wearing builders sitting in a van, their faces lit up and they waved. Our faintly ridiculous choice of transport seems to brighten people's day; they stop to let it out of junctions, and wave it
courteously into parking spaces. You get to see a better side of human nature and surely that, alone, is worth four years of struggle
HOUSE.
After almost four years of toil, tears and hard cash, our 1932 Austin Seven restoration project, gleaming in its blue and black paintwork, finally took to the road.
Back in 2010,1 wrote in this magazine that we'd just bought a Seven (an RM, for those in the know) that had been off the road for 50 years and needed a complete nut-and-bolt rebuild. We had naively hoped to complete the work in time to drive to that year's Goodwood Revival, but anyone who has restored a classic will smile wryly at our optimism. Every step
in the restoration process ended up taking 10 times longer - and costing 10 times more-than in our worst nightmares.
We knew the bodywork needed professional attention and the fabric roof had decayed beyond repair, and that we'd need new running boards and window glass.
We'd planned for full electrical rewiring, reconditioned wire wheels and far more besides, but we didn't anticipate that every single component would require repair or replacement. We were soon adept at hunting for Austin Seven parts
from the nationwide network of enthusiasts, who share a language no-one else understands. If I say, 'Our SM5 Lucas switchboard turned out to be a Type N9 - typical, eh?'you'll get the idea. True, there were moments of glee, such as the day we first brought the Seven home on a trailer, connected it to a battery and - not expecting anything - swung the starting handle.The engine spluttered to life, and we drove the tattered tin box round the garden, double-declutching through
notchy gears, cackling maniacally and filling the air with un-ecological black smoke. We even discovered the engine hada 1950s'Supaloy' high-compression cylinder-head which, according to the sales literature, would 'make your old saloon go like a Sputnik.'Hmmm.
The biggest challenge, however, was the interior. As my husband commented: 'It's a shame that the chap who owned this car back in 1964 has died - it means that I can't kill him myself for what he did to it.'
This included cutting out the original dashboard and contriving some sort of weird, home-made replacement. Oh, and gluing the opening windscreen shut.
As we hit the second winter of our project, I began to lose hope. It was 20 years since I'd worked in an unheated garage, and I'd forgotten how your fingers go numb, and when (inevitably) you hit your thumb with a hammer, you wait several long, dread-filled seconds for your frozen nerves to send the pain message to your brain. But, on 24 February, all the frustration and pain (and money) seemed worthwhile. We chugged through the village, filled with the joy of having restored a piece of
history, and of driving something whose every nut and bolt we knew personally. It was also a pleasure to see other people's reactions to this tiny pre-war car that looks more like a toy than a four-seater saloon.
When we pottered past three tough-looking, woolly-hat-wearing builders sitting in a van, their faces lit up and they waved. Our faintly ridiculous choice of transport seems to brighten people's day; they stop to let it out of junctions, and wave it
courteously into parking spaces. You get to see a better side of human nature and surely that, alone, is worth four years of struggle